Bulbs generally fall into two main categories – spring flowering bulbs and summer flowering bulbs.
Spring flowering bulbs are hardy bulbs and often serve as a first sign of spring when they bloom. They are planted before fall’s first frost and are able to withstand the cold winter months. Most spring flowering bulbs, like daffodils, are able to flower year after year without being replanted.
Summer flowering bulbs are planted after the season’s last frost because they are not able to survive cold and harsh winter conditions. These bulbs, too, can flower year after year, but only if cared for properly. They must be dug up after flowering and becoming dormant, stored indoors over winter and then replanted after the next year’s final frost to be viable.
Spring flowering bulbs include daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths, while summer flowering bulbs include gladiolus, dahlia and canna.
Storing bulbs is important for their longevity and flowering success. If you have recently purchased bulbs and they are in their packaging (typically a brown bag or something similar) you can store them in a cool dry place until you are ready to plant them.
There are a few steps to follow if you are storing bulbs that you have dug up from the ground to keep for replanting. Wash the bulbs so they are free of dirt and allow them to dry out in a shaded place. If the bulbs have any spots they should be tossed because that is typically a sign of disease or infection.
All bulbs should be stored in a well-ventilated area with temperatures averaging between 50 and 60 degrees – your basement or garage should work for this. Warm temperatures and direct sunlight will damage your bulbs, so keep this in mind.
There are a few exceptions to these rules. A few bulbs like dahlia, caladium, begonia and canna, require certain moisture levels while being stored. To help them you’ll want to keep the soil on them while storing them but wash them just before planting them.
Exercise your green thumb and give some bulbs a try. Here are a few suggestions for flower bulbs to try from the gardening enthusiasts at AvantGardenDecor.com:
Spring Flowering Bulbs:
Giant Flowering Onion (Allium giganteum) – a dense globe-shaped flower that can be planted about 6 to 8 inches deep in the fall.
Dutch Crocus (Crocus vernus) – an upright purple flower that should be planted about three inches deep and four inches apart.
Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) – this yellow petaled early spring bloomer likes partial shade and well-drained moist soil.
Common Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) – a drooping white flower surrounded by lush green leaves and stalks can be planted three inches deep and three inches apart.
Common Grape Hyacinth (Muscari botryoides) – gorgeous grape-colored cluster blooms give name to this plant that appreciates sandy soil in full sun or partial shade.
Summer Flowering Bulbs:
Oriental Lily (Lilium auratum) – with varieties ranging from one to six feet in height, this bright flower is hardiest in zones 5 through 9.
Tuberous Begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida) – large pink blossoming flowers that grow well in full shade and well-drained soil.
Pineapple Lily (Eucomis bicolor) – gorgeous pineapple-shaped blooms surrounded by lush green leaves should be planted about 5 to 8 inches deep and three inches apart.
Butterfly Ginger (Hedychium coronarium) – long, fragrant flower clusters that can be planted in a container and brought indoors as a winter houseplant.
Elephant’s Ear (Colocasia) – large, elephant ear shaped green foliage that can tower about four feet high should be planted 1 to 2 inches deep and about 5 inches apart.
Which will you try? Share with us in the comments below or on our Facebook page!
There are a few water bulbs that can be planted indoors and will be sprouting in no time with the use of a jar, pebbles and water. Amaryllis and paperwhite bulbs are the perfect for keeping your green thumb exercised during cold winter months!
Let’s get started! Fill a shallow container with rocks or pebbles. Create a small dip in the rocks and place the bulb in the dip. The bulb’s roots will tangle through the rocks or pebbles and find a water source.
Once the bulb is in place, fill the container with water. Pour the water so that it covers a few millimeters of the bulb’s base. We like to place moss or foliage on top to create a “compost” of sorts. This also helps keep moisture in.
Keep an eye on the water line of the container, as the plant grows it will pull moisture from the water source. You will need to add water every few days to keep your plant growing.
The highlight of using bulbs for gardening is the ease of planting bulbs. Bulbs can be planted pretty much anywhere as long as the soil is well drained. Prepare the soil by digging and moving it around so it is workable. Add some compost in and mix it through to provide well-nourished surroundings for the bulb.
Using bulb-specific guidelines plant your bulbs in the soil at their recommended depth. A general rule of thumb is that small bulbs are planted about 5 inches deep, while large bulbs can be planted 8 inches deep. The bulb should be planted with the pointier side up, but don’t worry if you don’t, bulbs are typically able to move themselves upright so they grow and flower.
This is most important – never put fertilizer in the dug out hole with the bulb. Fertilizer is capable of killing the bulb and its roots. Organic fertilizer can be used on the soil outside the bulb’s casing if you deem it necessary.
Knowing your gardening hardiness zone is the first step in choosing which bulbs are best suited for your garden. It is important to remember that spring flowering bulbs are planted in fall before the frost and flower the following spring. Summer flowering bulbs are planted after spring’s last frost to flower within the next few months.
As mentioned in this Love Your Yard blog post, a hardiness zone is expressed as a “geographically defined area in which a specific category of plant life is capable of growing, as defined by climatic conditions, including its ability to withstand the minimum temperatures of the zone.” These zones, according to the USDA, are based on the average annual extreme minimum temperature during a 30-year period in the past, not the lowest temperature that has ever occurred or is predicted to occur.
Visit this map provided by the USDA and click on your location. A box will pop up and share information with you like what zone you reside, what your zone’s average temperature is, and what the range is. Avant Garden Décor is located in zone 6B.
Head over to Google and get searching! Enter the terms “zone 6B frost dates” and you’ll find an incredible amount of information. From the results we were given we are able to understand our first frost date is October 15th and our last frost date is April 15th.
What information did you find when you searched? Are you planning your plantings based on your frost dates? Share with us in the comments section!
When growing roses gardeners typically transplant rose bushes to their garden from a local gardening center. Starting your rose bushes from seed can be a very rewarding activity but it will have its disappointments and challenges. Rose seed starting is also the best way to create your very own rose hybrid. Let’s take a look at how you can start your spring roses from seed.
Collect rose hips that have been formed for about four months. Cut the rose hip in half with a knife and remove the seeds from inside. You will then place these seeds in water and let them soak overnight. In the morning remove any floating seeds from your collection as these will either produce weak seedlings or may not germinate at all.
You will need to remove the pulp from your seeds and can do this simply with a blender. Place the seeds in the blender with fresh water and blend for a few seconds. This will allow the pulp to be scrubbed from the seeds.
Place the seeds on a moist paper towel and fold it over a few times. Place this small packet into a plastic bag to create a germination environment for your rose seeds. You can help force germination by chilling your seeds for about six to ten weeks before planting by placing them in the refrigerator or cool garage.
In early spring, after soaking your seeds for a month or two you can begin creating seedlings. Fill a shallow container or individual pots with half potting soil and half compost and place seeds about a half-inch deep. Water your seed collection so the soil is moist.
Place a plastic or glass cover over the pots and place them in a warm and sun-filled place. Keep the soil moist and seeds will begin germinating. When the seedlings begin to get high enough you can remove the glass or plastic cover so they are not restricted. After six weeks the small seedlings will be a few inches tall and will be ready for their next step!
You can plant them into separate pots if initially put into a tray or you can plant them directly outside. Become familiar with your gardening hardiness zone so you do not ruin all your hard work by planting before the last frost.
Given the opportunity, insects will tear apart your rose garden. The following are bugs that may be your rose’s biggest contenders in the garden:
- Aphid – Aphid presence is apparent if a sticky honey-dew-like excretion is on your plants (if affected by sooty mold fungus this substance will turn black). Yellowing or curling leaves suggest a large infestation, as does stunted plant growth. Use an insect killing soap spray like Safer® Brand Insect Killing Soap to quickly tackle an aphid issue.
- Japanese Beetle – Leaf feeding and skeletonizing plants is the Japanese Beetle’s favorite hobby. To eliminate this insect at its larval stage you’ll want to use a grub killer like Safer® Brand Grub Killer, but once they become grown you’ll need to use a trap. The Safer® Brand Japanese Beetle Trap lures and traps these bugs from wreaking havoc on your property.
- Thrip – Thrips are thirsty and attack plants by sucking on stem and leave tissue leaving the plant looking mottled. Often leaves take on a silvery appearance because the deep green coloring has been syphoned out. Safer® Brand Insect Killing Soap will kill Thrips and create a healthy environment for your roses.
- Caterpillar – With a diet of leaves and petals, the caterpillar loves to snack on rose plants. A garden B.t. dust like Safer® Brand Garden Dust with B.t. will deter caterpillars from using your rose bushes as lunch.
When watering your rose bushes be sure to spray water along all the leaves to knock any insects off. This is an initial preventive measure for insect control, however continuous observation should help you catch an bug problems before they become too out of control.
Roses have also been known to attract a few problem diseases that can leave your rose garden a mess after they hit. Keeping a few products on hand will allow you to manage most problems before they are able to spread.
- Black Spot – This fungal disease can be identified by yellowing leaves, premature leaf drop or a decline in plant growth. Employ a fungicide like Safer® Brand Garden Fungicide to cure your rose plants of Black Spot.
- Powdery Mildew – A white or gray mold present on leaves is a sure sign of powdery mildew. Like black spot, you can contain and kill powdery mildew using Safer® Brand Garden Fungicide.
- Rust – Over 5,000 species of plant rust exist, but typically they appear similar – brownish-yellow to bright orange spots formed on plant leaves. Rust spreads easily from plant to plant through the air, so it is important to contain this rose-loving disease as soon as you spot it! Safer® Brand Garden Fungicide will tackle rust.
- Sooty Mold – Similar to soot, this form of mold will form powdery gray to black spots on a rose’s leaves and stem. Too much of this plant disease will affect the proper photosynthesis process negatively impacting the plant. Safer® Brand Insect Killing Soap will kill the bacteria and keep your roses healthy.
Like most bacteria, the above rose diseases are escalated when given the opportunity to grow. Water and moisture can create a breeding ground, so if possible you should water your rose bushes in the morning to mid-afternoon when there is still time for water to dry off before sun fall and dropping temperatures.
Gardens dedicated to the rose have been around for centuries. Whether it was an amateur gardener embracing a rose theme or the royal monarchy growing rows and rows of roses as a means of embracing their bartering power, the rose garden has a fan following and has created some of the most popular gardening destinations in the world. Let’s see where the top famous rose gardens exist and why they’re favorite vacation destinations:
- France – La Roseraie du Val de Marne – the world’s oldest existing garden devoted solely to roses was created in 1894 and contains a collection of roses and species specific to the time it was built.
- Japan – Flower Festival Commemorative Park – Two main rose gardens – the Rose Theme Garden and Royal Rose Garden – comprise this park containing 7,000 varieties and 30,000 plants.
- United States – International Rose Test Garden – is a hot bed of new rose varieties as it is the world’s testing ground for hybrid roses.
- United Kingdom – Coughton Court – The Rose Labyrinth is the only British garden given the Award of Garden Excellence by the International Federation of Rose Societies
- Australia – Ruston’s Rose Garden – Grounds containing 50,000 rose bushes and 4,000 varieties cover this garden that was created in 1924. The garden is open 363 days a year!
- United Kingdom – Hever Castle and Gardens – The childhood home of Anne Boleyn features a walled rose garden hosting over 4,000 rose bushes.
- Monaco – Princess Grace Rose Garden – A home to over 4,000 rose bushes, this garden celebrates the Princess’s favorite flower and subject of her book “My Book of Flowers” which was published in 1980.
- Ireland – The City of Belfast International Rose Garden – This garden of over 30,000 rose bushes hosts and annual Rose Week every July where final judging of the international rose trials takes place.
- Spain – The Cervantes Rose Garden – A collection of 10,000 international rose bushes is displayed in this garden set on a hill in Barcelona.
- South Africa – Vergelegen Rose Gardens – Combined with a vineyard, this estate, who’s name means “situated far away,” hosts a themed rose garden focused on formal hybrid tea rose varieties.
Image via http://www.roseraieduvaldemarne.fr/
As rose bushes grow they will need to be maintained so they remain healthy and provide optimal blooms. Rose pruning is the act of trimming and maintaining your rose bushes. Don’t worry that a pruning mistake will ruin the look of your beautiful rose bushes, as they will most likely grow out within a short period of time.
Equip yourself with clean and sharp tools and thick gardening gloves. When you start pruning you’ll want to start at the base of the plant and move your way out and up. Cuts should be made at 45-degree angles and about ¼ inch above buds facing the outside of the plant.
You will want to remove all stalks that are broken or dead and any diseased or dying wood. Additionally you’ll want to prune to open the center of the plant, which will further provide air (space) and water to the plant.
Pruning is done at various times depending on which gardening hardiness zone you reside. Mostly gardeners will prune in the spring, and a good indicator of proper pruning time is when forsythia is in bloom. Check your hardiness zone information for any variations of pruning you should be aware of.